Texting in Marrakesh

I have come to realize that I am kind of obsessed with taking pictures of people using cell phones. I already knew this, but Theresa really drove it home for me in Vietnam, So what is it? I think that there is something oddly humanizing about it. On the one hand, we all do it, we are all obsessed with our phones, we are all constantly on them texting, talking, or trying to preserve the moment. Yet we are also all always outside the moment, disconnected from our immediate surroundings. In some sense, it's sad that this is the technology that transcends our differences. But my hope is pictures like this--of a man dressed in the traditional Djellaba (Moroccan Arabic: جلابة; Berber: Aselham) in the Medina of Marrakesh lost in his cell phone--will help people see that we're all not that much different from one another.

Marrakesh Medina

Pay no attention to the man on the cell phone. That's not really what this picture is about, though it sort of is. This is not the most iconic picture of the famous medina in Marrakesh. It's easy to really get caught up in a romanticized idea of the medina or to feel like the whole place exists just for tourists. In fact, one ex pat told me she often forgets that this part of the city exists, as Marrakesh is a large city with malls and freeways like everywhere else. The medina really is all of thee things: unfathomably old yet modern, organic and a tourist trap. The medina is even imperfectly mapped by Google , which I used as best I could but, luckily, still got lost. These contradictions not only exist side my side, but provide the opposing forces that define the Medina's existence. After all, modernity is contained within the very definition of tradition. I feel like this picture capture this sentiment.

Jemaa el-Fnaa, Marrakesh

This picture doesn't really capture the Jemma el-Fna in it's entirety--most of it is between the minaret on the left (in the foreground) and the one one the right (in the background). This is the main square in Marrakesh. It's also a tourist trap, but in some sense it's been that way since the 11th century, so it's okay.

Woman at a Coffee Stand

Between the French and Arabic influence, Morocco is full of coffee, It was very convenient for me, more an an addict then a connoisseur, as I walked around the city snapping photos . At once such stop, I snapped a photo of this woman as she was drinking coffee. However, the woman running the coffee stand charged me for the photo!

Lazama Synagogue Torah

Many people do not think of the Jewish community when they think of Morocco but Jews have been settling in the region for a millennia. They were often not treated well, though compared to the places they were fleeing--such as Spain in the 14th and 15th centuries--it was better then the alternative. After World War 2, the population declined considerably. This synagogue is in the old Jewish quarter.

Playing Football under the Koutoubia Mosque

I was wandering around taking photos on my second night in Marrakesh and came across these kids playing football this space under the iconic Koutoubia Mosque , built intially in 1147. It was rebuilt in 1154 after it was realized that the original wasn't facing exactly toward Mecca. I Iove seeing old places re-purposed for new uses. And I feel like this image captures so much about Morocco: the old and new, Islam, the love of football.

Fountain Under Koutoubia Mosque

This is on the other side of of the Koutoubia Mosque. I took a lot of shots from here, in and out of the fountain. I like the reflection across the fountain and the puddles, the way it disappears into the ground.

Gymnasts in Sidi Ifni

A bit of narrative: After a few days in Marrakech on my own, Jason flew in from Las Vegas, we rented a car, and hit the road. Our route took us south, to the coast, and we spent the whole next day on and off the beach. Our destination was Sidi Ifni, a former Spanish settlement that Spain left in 1969, caving to international pressure. It was fun showing up in Sidi Ifni because suddenly a lot more people spoke Spanish, and Jason and I could finally talk to more people.

We arrived at sunset and hit the beach. We came across these young men doing gymnastics on the beach. I had previously had a hard time taking pictures of Moroccans, who just don’t tend to like having their pictures taken. But these guys were into it and, as Jason pointed out to me, really started to up their game as I started taking pictures. A wider angle lens would have captured the whole scene better, but I was having fun with the 30mm which allowed to get the action with a smoother bokeh in the background.

Boardwalk in Sidi Ifni

Sidi Ifni has a bit of a vacation beach town vibe. But winter was coming as we arrived, so it felt rather empty, everyone around was inside watching football. Actually, abandoned beach town is probably my favorite vibe of all. And it looks like the board walk hadn’t changed a lot since the 1960s. This shot was taken from the restaurant under our bungalow motel.

Mosque near Sidi Ifni

After Sidi Ifni, we cut inland. And we were kind of trucking so didn't get to stop as much as we would like. We’d managed to get pretty far south, and needed to get up north again, to the other side of the Atlas Mountains in a couple days, to start our trek in the Jbel Saghro. But the roads further south tend to be a bit less developed. Driving to the coast, we were on a full-on freeway . Further south, not so much. And it was simply fantastic, all red rock and cactus, the clouds still clearing from recent storms. The road was terrifying , at least when a semi was coming from the other direction on what was effectively a one-lane road. Jason took the wheel masterfully though, and I managed to get a few shots along the way.

Boys in Guelmim

We really just drove through Guelmim briefly, but got out to stretch our legs. Maybe because it was not a tourist town, people were more excited to get their picture taken. The boy in the center had a Real Madrid jersey, but I let it pass! I saw jerseys from all over Europe, but it did seem like the Spanish teams were the best represented.

Casbah Near Tata

This is one of the first casbahs we saw, though near Ouarzazate we would see several in an hour. We only got to walk in a couple but they really made my inner 8-year-old come out. They just look so cool! Like real-life sand castles. And my favorite ones were the really run down ones.

Tomb in Foum Zguid

This is a tomb in the old city of a town currently called Foum Zguid. Or at least that’s what I think it’s called, though the guide that showed us this tomb told us it was called Foum Hench, which he said means mouth of the snake. Both the name of the this town, and the translation of the word “hench” as “snake” are up for debate as I can’t seem to prove either. Nevertheless, this building is about 300 years old. Our guide told us that, when it was inhabited, both Muslims and Jews lived here in harmony. This was a Muslim tomb.

Outside Ouarzazate

As we raced towards Boumalne Dades and the Jbel Saghro--which led to me getting a speeding ticket!--we stopped to catch the sunset from and old casbah.

Woman Walking Across Desert

After three days of driving, we met with our guide in Boumalne Dades and set off into the Jbel Sahgro (Berber languages: Adrar Saɣru, Arabic: جبل صغرو‎) . This was the best of the time of year to head into the Jbel Sahgro, and it’s the time of year when Berber—or , as they call themselves, Amazigh—herders come down from the high Altlas mountains with their sheep. Berbers are indigenous north Africans, who have been in the area long before Romans, Islam, or the French came to the area. Like most Moroccans, they tend to be Sunni Muslim now, though many speak Berber in addition, though sometimes instead of, Arabic. In this shot, a Berber woman walks towards town with the Atlas Mountains in the distance.

First Glimpse of the Jbel Saghro

The Jbel Saghro (Berber languages: Adrar Saɣru, Arabic: جبل صغرو‎) is a small mountain range between the high Atlas Mountains and the Sahara Desert. It is stark and striking, though this isn't the picture I wanted. The one I really wanted was of a girl I met, about 12, whom I gave a candy bar. I asked to take her picture, but she refused. My guide told me to take a picture as she walked away, and I seriously considered it. But each time I raised my camera to my eye, she turned around and gave me a look that told me not to. And with each look back, her smile just got bigger. But as funny as it was, i could tell she really didn't want her picture taken. My bribe of the candy bar didn't work. I took this picture instead. As we walked down the other side, we looked back and saw her silhouette bouncing across the ridge line. With that, we descended into the Jbel Saghro.

Kids in the Jbel Saghro

I was told by our guide, Hussain, that these children’s dad wouldn’t be crazy about me taking their picture. But after I bought a couple things from the girl, they allowed it. There are many herders in the area who live in camps, though these kids live in a house near a spring. Hussain said their father made juniper liquor.

Hasan And Marcela

Hasan was our mule man, and our mule was named Marcela. After the hike, Hasan took the mule through the mountains and back to where we started. We couldn’t have done it without Hasan, who made sure we had enough to eat and a fire most nights.

Settlement at Igli

Igli is a small outpost beneath the spectacular cliffs of the Jbel Saghro. In addition to herding, there is some farming in the area. Jason and I spent a lot of time on this mesa as the sun went down.

Gambling Man

That night in Igli, a few locals came buy to play cards.

Gambling Kid

I couldn't tell how the game went, but the guy on the left was beating everyone. Here, a local kid talks game.

Looking back to Igli

Camel's Head.

This rock is probably the most famous formation in the Jbel Sahgro, called the Camel's Head.

Berber Woman with Baby.

This woman was walking between towns. For some money, she let me take her picture. I took pictures of her baby too, but we didn't want to wake him.

Casbah in Jbel Saghro

I’ve been lucky to see a lot of archeological sites around the world—including right here in the United States, where you can find some of the best —and it’s given me a some perspective. And that perspective is this: the smaller the better! I’m not saying you shouldn’t go to the big ones: Ankor Wat, Chichen Itza, and Persepolis are amazing. And they are impressively big. But the fact is, I like to get mentally lost in them, to imagine what it must have been like to be there (though I admit, the crowds of Ankor Wat may be very representational of what it was like living there in the 12th century). But more than anything, I appreciate the perspective that I get from seeing a ruin half-way returned to nature. It reminds me that for everything that is chaotic and kind of scary about my own country right now, we will at some point just be a pile of rocks. So we hiked up on this little casbah right before the sun crept out of the valley. I as a little bummed we missed it by 15 minutes, but I like this silhouette.

Man Cracking Almonds

I also love scenes like this, where the past is ever-present is people's daily lives. This man as cracking almonds as we strolled through this small town in the Jbel Saghro.

Leaving the Jbel Saghro.

Our final day in the Jbel Saghro we came to the road and a lot more settlements. It was nice to find fresh bread and tea.

Ice Cube Scowl

Is this anything but an Ice Cube impression? I mean, it probably is just this kid being a bit unsure of who I was, what I was doing in his town, and why I wanted to take his picture. But he came around once he figured out I was harmless. See below.

Ice Cube Smile

There it is.

Fan Club

As we waited for the bus from the town where we exited the Jbel Saghro, this girls kept sneaking around us, pointing ad giggling. They didn't seem to mind me taking their picture, but they wouldn't let me get to close before they would run off laughing.

This boys were also waiting for the bus. They were a bit shy, but let me get a picture.

Boy in Ait Snan

We were taking picture of an old Casbah near Ait Snan when these kids walked up and let us take their pictures.

Young Photographers

Jason bravely let them play with his camera.

Tracks in the Sahara

Here's what all those pictures of the Sarhara on Instagram don't tell you about it: it's full of people, a lot of them tourists, and those pristine dunes are tracked up by people, camels, trucks, and atvs. I am sure that's not true of more remote locations (especially Algeria), though we went to one of the most popular Sarhara locations in Morocco, Erg Chebbi. An Erg is a sea of dunes, and Erg Chebbi is one of two big ones in Morocco that are accessible via a highway. It wasn't really on our itinerary, but after Jbel Saghro it sounded kind of fun, and we liked the idea of seeing the sun rise over the dunes on Christmas day. It was packed with people, the camels seemed miserable, and the whole thing seemed a bit essentiallizing. But that said, it was amazing, the food was great, and it was one of my favorite Christmas mornings ever! Just don't let those photographers lie to you. Lot's of people out there tearing up the desert.

Minaret in Moulay Idriss

Our time is Moulay Idriss was too short. It has only been open to tourists since 2005, and still sin't that popular. It's built on a mountain (see below), and it's streets are a wonderful tangle. Among them you can find Morocco's only round minaret, pictured here.

Moulay Idriss

Moulay Idriss el Akhbar is the eponym of Moulay Idriss, who is buried in the mausoleum under the green roofs in the foreground. He was a great-grandson of the Prophet Muhammad: his grandparents were Muhammad's daughter Fatima and Muhammad's cousin Ali. Idriss was heir to the caliphate in Damascus, but after the civil war and Umayyad victory that led to the Shia-Sunni divide, he fled to Morocco. Arriving in 787, Moulay Idriss founded Morocco's first Arab dynasty. Thus, the town is very sacred for all of Morocco, and is a place of pilgrimage. It is said in Morocco that six pilgrimages to Moulay Idriss during the annual festival honoring the saint is equivalent to one Hajj to Mecca.

Volubilis

Volubilis turned out to be even cooler than I imaged. I am not a Roman history buff—though I did go to a reading once—but Volubilis could turn me into one. The detail was amazing, and I have mentioned before, I am a fan of ruins that lack lot of crowds. Plus, it’s basically a huge city built for harvesting olive oil!

Door at Medersa bou Inania

If Morocco is internet famous for anything, it may just be their doors. And for good reason, because they are spectacularly detailed. The Medersa bou Inania, built in the 14th century, this religious school (a medersa) is a reguge of tranquility lies in the middle of the chaos of teh Fez medina. Later, we found someone using a bow lathe which appears to be how the lattice work on this was done.

Man Tanning Hides

Fez may be most famous for its tanneries. They are very colorful, though on the day we were there it was very cloudy, so I had a hard time getting a good landscape shot of the tannery. Luckily, I was able to get some shots up looks at the work, which appears quite brutal. People always talk about how bad the smell is, but I didn't think it was too terrible.

I am most happy when I am up early, before the sun, wandering a strange city and taking photos. It's even better with coffee. I was lucky to find this spot where, just behind me, is a nice little cafe serving espresso and croissants. It was wonderful it relax and shoot as the city woke up. In front is the entrence to the Fez medina. In the arch you can see the Medersa bou Inania minaret.

Running in Chefchaouen

Second only to Moroccan doors, Chefchaouen is another Pinterest favorite. Probabally for good reason. Most of the city is painted blue, and it's full of photographers taking fantastic pictures. I have several, but this one is my favorite. It reminds me that, as much as the city has been preserved as a reminder of the past, it still lives and breaths and changes with modern life. I was lucky to be ready for this one, as the little girl rushed by us with her pink backpack, contrasting both optically and ontologically with the blue background.

Tangiers Train Station

Jason on Train

It's not quite the right focus, but I like this picture. This is on the back to Marrakesh. Well, more technically this is the train to Fez. Sometime after this, we went to change trains in Sida Kacem, and catch the train from Fez to Marrakesh . But I missed it. I was gathering my stuff and the train began moving. Jason was organized and off though, watching the train leave. So Jason is on the platform, set up for the next train south. I'm on the train, heading east. Panicked. this really is not how I wanted this trip to end! I was fairly distraught, and the kind Moroccans in my berth tried to help me out. They figured out, as I was figuring out standing in the back of the train smoking my only cigarette of 2017 frantically playing with my phone, that next stop was Meknes, and there as another train coming through Meknes going to Marrakesh. It passed through Sidi Kacem. I couldn't reach Jason on the phone (he didn't have a SIM card) but my hope was that he keeps to the plan to go to Marrakesh and catch the train for which he had a ticket. I would catch the next train. Worst case scenario: we both get on the same flight leaving Marrakesh the next day.

In fact, due to kindness of strangers (my berth mates made damn sure I didn't miss that stop) and a bit of luck, the best scenario transpired. I got off in Meknes and went straight to the ticket booth. The guy in the booth didn't speak English, but a young woman behind me did. She explained in French what was going on, not because she really got the details from me. but because she seemed to have recognized the situation immediately (was she familiar with dumb Americans? I felt like dumb American). So did the guy in the booth, and I suspect that is a frequent problem with tourists. He told me, through her, that I was free to get on the next train to Marrakesh with my ticket, but I would have to sit in 2nd class. This was great news! I am not one of these fancy people who needs to sit in 1st class. Or even should sit in 1st class.

There were a few more gates to get through, and the young woman talked me through all of them and made sure I got to the platform, and on the right train. As we passed by the stop where I last saw Jason I looked at the platform but saw no sign of Jason. After another half hour, I decided to walk up the cars to see if I could find him. Even though I knew Jason could figure it out, I did have all of the hotel information about where we were staying that night and it would just be a lot easier if we found each other.

And we did. The train was a lot longer than I realized, but after 4 cars, I found Jason. it turns out that the 1st train was behind schedule, which is why we left the transfer station so fast. For this reason, Jason missed the train were supposed to be on, and got on this train. Of course, this lit a fire in me to ask for my deserved 1st class berth! The conductor spoke Spanish, as do I, but I was not fluent enough to explain the nuance and injustice of the situation. Luckily, Jason came back to 2nd class in solidarity. We made it to Marrakesh and the next night, we partied in Franfurt for New Years!